The fuses on the "left" side of the panel should be "hot" all the time, while the fuses down the "right" side should only be "hot" when the key is in the "run" position. I started with making sure the fuse block was properly powered simply by using a test light. ![]() Have a stereo system I want to setup but holding off till I get the wiring cleaned up. The PO of my 69 had "butchered" my cars wiring, so I have spent hours on end (still not done) on getting just the basics working. Just wondering if there is a problem with the "plug" connector (just a thought). It also looks like the 4 wires are "plugged" into the gauge. Is the gas gauge the only problem or are you having multiple electrical problems? I looked under my dash today, and it looks like the gas gauge actually has 4 wires coming off of it. They are fairly simple to install, especially in older model cars that are not computer controlled. ![]() If your Elkies wiring was butchered as bad as you say by the PO, then you might be better off purchasing a quality replacement loom. Things can "short out" on occassion and without a fuse the results can be devistating. Anything that demands power to operate should pass thru a fuse. You should NEVER run direct power to electronics. Your setting yourself up for a possible meltdown. Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress. Dropt tank, cleaned it out, replaced sending unit and am going to reinstall tank in the next few days. Gauge was reading "full tilt" when I turned key on. I am going thru the same problem with my 69. Generally anytime the gauge looses the "signal" from the tank end, the gauge will goe full+ scale. There have been members who have found that the "tan" wire had an "internal" break in the wire due to age. Many of us with these "older" Elko's have had "gauge problems" and the majority of the time, it was resolved by cleaning up the ground connection at tank or replacing the sender unit. ![]() Sounds like we can rull out sender and the little ground wire since you said you replaced sender (which came with new ground wire). I doubt if gauge is bad since you have seen it at the dead empty mark and at the "full scale" position. If gauge goes "full tilt" to the right when key is turned on, then the gauge is working and the problem is most likely at the tank or with the "tan" wire going to the sender.If the gauge reads empty when you turn the key on, then the fuse have gone bad. First make sure the wires are hooked to the back of gauge correctly. The fuse powers up when you turn the ignition on. One is TAN, which goes to the sender at the tank and the other is purple that gets it's power from the fuse panel. I have a wiring diagram for my 69, which should be same as the 67. I would love to know how much gas I have so I can stop guessing on how much is left. Any help right now would be very appreciated. I was thinking that maybe it is getting a bad ground but I don't exactly know for sure or even how to fix the ground on the gauge. This made me think that I could have wired it wrong so I swapped the wires again and the fuel gauge dropped down to empty. When I turned the car over the power sent from turning it over shot the fuel gauge up past full. I sanded the terminals down a bit and wired the gauge back up. ![]() Today I thought that maybe the terminals were just too rusty for the wires and the gauge to have good contact. I wired it in the other day and it didn't want to do anything so at first I thought that the wires might be in the wrong spots so I swapped them around and still nothing. I did read that there are only supposed to be two wires that go to the fuel gauge which are the sending unit wire and a wire that leads to the ignition so when you turn the car over the gauge gets power. So the wiring in my 67 was totally butchered when I got the car and I have been trying to get my fuel gauge to work for the past couple of days.
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